Aix-en-Provence: Landscapes

Whew…this was a good day. No wonder I’m feeling so tired this evening.  Rob and I started out after breakfast to find Cezanne’s old stomping grounds in the hills behind our apartment. First stop, the “Painter’s Grounds” where he liked to sketch and paint Mt. Sainte Victorie. With the rosemary, lavender and oleander – this felt a lot like being back in California.

The mountain was hazy in the morning fog but still very impressive.

Around a few garden paths and through an olive grove, we walked down the hill to Cezanne’s studio. The charming red-shuttered building is surrounded by a leafy garden.

Rob and I followed a cat around the gravel paths.

On our way back to town, we discovered this tiny park full of roses and bewildering statues. I think it had something to do with the revolution?

It was market day in Aix-en-Provence again. We walked through the flower market near Hotel du Ville (City Hall)…

…and through the smaller produce market in the next plaza…

…to get to the main market in front of the courthouse. A judge in full red robe with elaborate ermine trim was on a smoking break outside. We managed to order a rotisserie chicken and potatoes cooked in the drippings from one stand. You would have thought I caught the chicken myself from how proud this minor achievement made me! Plus some vegetables from the nearby stands.

It was getting cold out, so Rob and I walked down to an enclosed cafe at the end of the Cours Mirabeau. It’s always a little entertaining to order because we’re only vaguely sure what we’re getting. Had no idea that the quiche I ordered and croque Rob picked came paired with baked potatoes with herb cheese and eggplant. Yum!

We finished lunch with the usual coffees before heading back home.

I finished my drawing of the Pavillion Vendome with watercolors in the afternoon. Pleased with how it came out!

Headed to town to explore in the afternoon. Stopped at the shop where they make those somewhat creepy terracotta dolls of Provencal characters, bought a few tiny advent calendars and wandered into the cathedral. Built on top of the 1st century Roman forum, it’s a jumble of different centuries of construction. This baptistery is from the 6th century.

I really loved the deep pine smell of the church. Was it some kind of special incense only found in Provence? Isn’t frankinscence made of tree sap? Actually, I’m pretty sure it was just Pine Sol being used by these two restorers in a small chapel. Tant pis, as they say!

There was a young student being taught a lesson on the massive organ while I was there.

Back out to town and up to the Painter’s Grounds again to sketch Mt. Sainte-Victorie in the evening light. Glad I made the trek! The windy day brought the stone into sharp relief and the moon showed up too.

Back home to book our next apartment – tomorrow is our last day in Aix. Dinner was so good. The chicken was delicious and the potatoes even better – both with strong rosemary and herb flavors. Plus, some fresh cauliflower cooked with shallots and a fresh salad. We have plenty of leftovers to take on our hike tomorrow!