Recipe: Creamed Pearl Onions

Every family seems to have that one dish that stands out as special holiday ritual to prepare. A dish that often seems unappealing for those outside the tribe. Mothers often inherit them from mothers-in-laws – which results in a lot of the dishes having a decidedly 1950’s flair. All across the country these jello salads and green bean casseroles being prepared for Thanksgiving tomorrow. For my husband’s family, the ritual dish is a cold pasta salad made with shrimp and sweet pickles.  For my family, it’s always been creamed pearl onions. 

The battle of the pearl onions was legendary in my house. Boiling and peeling (inevitably when they are still too hot) enough of those marble sized onions to serve twelve people was a sisyphean task, let alone making a thick cream sauce without it breaking. In the frenzy of preparing the turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, sauces, pie crusts, etc, etc, it was usually the pearl onions that pushed things over the edge. One year, the dastardly onions completed their journey just to be dropped just a few feet from the table – throwing bright cream sauce across the curtains. There was cursing.  

But, the onions are so good. And, now that Trader Joe’s sells handy bags of pearl onions that have already boiled and peeled, they’re easily made without cursing! Here’s the original recipe from my mom using fresh pearl onions, which you could just replace with the thawed frozen variety:

1. The onions: Put two 10 oz packages of whole fresh pearl onions into boiling water for about a minute or two. Onions should be somewhat firm but not crisp when you pierce them. Drain and cut off both ends which takes the outer layer too.
2. Make a thick cream sauce. Melt in a small heavy saucepan 2 tablespoons
   butter, Stir in 2 tablespoons of flour, blend well over a low heat, stir in 3/4
   cup milk and bring slowly to a boil while stirring.  Add 3/4 cup of grated
   sharp cheddar cheese and melt into the sauce.  Add a dash of cayenne to taste.  If you are using a lot of onions, obviously double or triple your sauce.
3. Pour the cheese sauce over the onions and bake for about 30 minutes or more depending on how soft you want the onions.

The frozen pearl onions are also great for easy coq-au-vin and pickling. I keep them stocked in the freezer at all times. What’s your family’s ritual recipe for Thanksgiving meal?